This year staycations are the fashion and Scotland’s stunning north coast is proving to be a popular choice. Like many others, we packed up our tent, loaded up the car and hit the road. We didn’t want to do the “traditional” NC500 and were quite happy to stay off the tourist route. There are lots of resources available for planning your north coast adventure and I joined a couple of Facebook groups which helped a lot. We planned this trip only about a week before heading off so it is doable on a short timescale.
Days 1 & 2
We headed up to Dornoch for our first couple of nights and checked in at Dornoch Caravan and Camping Park.
The campsite is gorgeous – right on the beach and next to a Links golf course. The campsite was apparently full both nights we were there although it definitely seemed a lot emptier the second night.
On the first night, we arrived early evening and set up our tent near where a few other tents and campervans had already set up. We went in to the town for some dinner from Alex’s Chinese and ate at our tent. Unfortunately, some of the campers near us were very noisy and inconsiderate and we slept terribly. The noise was unbelievable considering the campsite has a quiet hour policy. It really didn’t get the trip off to a good start at all.
On the second day we were too tired to really do much, so we chilled at the campsite until everyone else had packed up and then moved our tent to a more secluded spot near the beach. Much better! We spent the rest of the day wandering around Dornoch, visiting some shops, and walking on the beach.
Dornoch is a great choice to start your north coast trip as there are some decent shops in the town and also within a driveable distance. Make sure to stock up on the essentials!
Camping cost: £36 for two nights
Day 3
We set off early and headed north, stopping at Loch Fleet for a quick walk and some fresh air before travelling on to Golspie.
We parked up at the shore and went for a walk around the village which is lovely. There’s a really nice walk up through the woods to a waterfall and gorge but we didn’t have time to do it so it’s on the list for next time. We stopped for a quick coffee at the Coffee Bothy (excellent coffee!) and headed off to our next destination – Dunrobin Castle.
I was really excited to visit Dunrobin Castle as it’s an iconic feature of the east coast. Unfortunately it was quite busy and we made the decision not to pay the entry on this occasion as we only really had time for a quick walk around the gardens. Another thing added to our list for a future trip! For reference entry is £11 per adult.
We headed further north again to Brora where we again parked up and went for a walk. The golf course in Brora is right on the beach and is just beautiful.
Before leaving Brora we stopped for petrol as I wasn’t sure when we would next pass a petrol station. It’s worth keeping in mind that petrol is very expensive the further north you travel and filling stations are few and far between. I can’t even remember the next one we passed after this so I’m glad I chose to stop.
We were booked to camp that night in Melvich which is right on the north coast. Instead of continuing up the east we headed off the A9 and cut through Glen Loth which meant we got to see some really remote areas. The road is single track all the way and we stopped at a few information points where you can learn about the history of the area and the Highland Clearances, where thousands of families were forced away from their homes and lands in the late 18th century. (Information points on the route are provided by Timespan museum in Helmsdale)
We also drove through Forsinard which is an RSPB nature reserve. They have some nature trails and a viewing tower which I’d like to visit properly in the future.
Our home for the night was the North Coast Touring Park in Melvich. It’s a lovely little site with a few glamping pods, space for campervans/caravans and tent pitches. There was also a bar serving food and drink – which was amazing as we had barely eaten all day! The staff were great and told me everything they could make gluten free. In the end they made me a pasta dish with a variety of veg and gluten free garlic bread. It was delicious and just what I needed.
The toilet and shower facilities here were the best I’ve ever experienced on a campsite. They have sliders on the door to the block so you could see how many people were in at the one time – meaning they never got overcrowded.
We were offered an upgrade to a glamping pod but declined as we were on a budget. We really loved it here and plan to come back and stay in one of the pods during the winter. It’ll hopefully be a bit quieter and we can explore the local area more.
After our meal we headed to the beach for sunset which was just incredible. It was a clear night and the skies were beautiful. I’ve never seen so many stars.
Camping cost: £15 for one night
Day 4
It was an early start to break camp and head west to Durness. This was a lovely drive along the north coast. The campsite in Durness don’t take pre-bookings for non-electric pitches so it was first come first served. My Facebook group research meant we had heard that it can be very busy with queues at the booking office ahead of opening.
Thankfully we were lucky and arrived early. The booking office at Sango Sands Oasis wasn’t technically open yet but the lady working said most people had left already so she was happy to let us check in and get our pitch sorted. This meant we basically had pick of the whole site – result! We pitched our tent right at the end of the site, facing out over the beach and the North Atlantic Ocean.
Durness ended up being my favourite place out of all the places we visited on this trip. I loved the whole area. We explored the beaches, and took a walk out to Faraid Head which has some of the biggest sand dunes I’ve ever seen! Most of this area is managed by the Ministry of Defence and is used as a military training area.
During non-pandemic times it’s possible to get a ferry from this area over to Cape Wrath – the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. Unfortunately just now it’s not possible to run the ferry and bus required and maintain sufficient physical distancing between passengers.
On our walk we stumbled upon Balnakeil Bay and just had to go for a quick paddle. It was so cold but worth it!
The big attraction in Durness is Smoo Caves but again on driving past it was quite busy so we chose to leave it for a future visit.
The toilets at the campsite are quite small and in the morning were very cramped with most people choosing not to distance from others while waiting or using the sinks/hand dryers. However the location is incredible and I think in normal times I wouldn’t have any issues with the facilities which were clean and well maintained. Just can’t help it if other people are choosing not to follow the guidance…
Camping cost: £19 for one night
Days 5 & 6
Another early start, this time to head south west to the Coigach peninsula. This is an area just north of Ullapool overlooking the Summer Isles – a series of uninhabited islands.
The drive was incredible – this part of the country has such a unique landscape and it really needs to be experienced. We veered off the main NC500 route here sticking to the inland route towards Lochinver, rather than following the coast, meaning we drove through the mountains rather than by the beaches.
From Lochinver the sat nav took us off the main road to Ullapool and on a single track road down the coast to the Coigach peninsula. This drive was beautiful and we got a great view of the iconic Assynt mountains like Stac Pollaidh and Suilven.
We stayed at Port A Bhaigh campsite which is near the main village of Achiltibuie. It had decent facilities and a great shop – very handy as it’s so remote. My only issue with this campsite is it’s very exposed to the elements. Unfortunately we experienced very strong wind and rain while here, after having great weather up to this point. It meant we weren’t able to do the kind of outdoor activities we had planned for the area.
The weather also meant we struggled to cook using our camping stove and we chose to travel to Ullapool for fish and chips instead! Best. Decision. Ever. Even if it did take almost an hour to drive there (it’s only 25 miles!!)
I had a gluten free fish supper from Deli-ca-sea in Ullapool. It’s right on the main promenade and I was really comfortable eating there. They had a big sign up advertising that they had a separate fryer for their gluten free items. I have never had fish so fresh in my life. 100% worth the visit if you are in this area.
Camping cost: £28 for two nights
Day 7
Finally it was time to head back to our starting point in Inverness. I’d booked us in to the Travelodge and couldn’t wait to have a proper shower!
The drive from Ullapool to Inverness is lovely and only takes a couple of hours. We stopped again for petrol leaving Ullapool and had to wait in a huuuuuge queue of cars, buses, campervans and motorbikes to fill up. I probably could have left it until we reached Dingwall but honestly I wasn’t willing to risk it.
We felt really safe in the hotel which was quiet and very clean. I was delighted to get a Pizza Hut takeaway for dinner and had a great nights sleep in a very comfy bed.
Day 8
Before heading home we visited some friends and explored the forest trails at Abriachan. This was a great area for a walk and has lots of activities for kids. I especially loved that they have a forest nursery with an outdoor classroom. Is there a better way to start kids on their education journey? I don’t think so.
Overall we had a great trip and it was definitely needed after life being pretty full on during the pandemic. We explored so much of our beautiful country and I can’t wait to go and spend more time up north.
In future I wouldn’t rush to do this kind of road trip again, mainly because I think we were so focused on getting to the next destination that we weren’t able to do everything we wanted. In hindsight think it would be much better to base somewhere on either coast and then travel from there to the places you want to visit.
I did love the driving aspect of the holiday – those single track roads along the north coast are just calling out to be enjoyed – but felt I couldn’t appreciate as much of the scenery as I would as a passenger. I think I would get more out of it if we had been based in one location for longer.
Total miles driven: 915
Have you visited Scotland’s north coast? Where’s your favourite spot?
Looking for other things to do and see in Scotland? You can find all my Scotland posts here.
Wow your photos!! They are honestly stunning! We’re off on a little mini-trip in a few weeks – we’re not doing the whole NC500 but we’re staying at a place near Dunrobin Castle and I honestly cannot wait to see a different part of Scotland haha! This past year has really made me so grateful for how beautiful Scotland is and this post has got me SO excited to get back to exploring it!
Thank you! That whole area is so beautiful – I think we’ll be making a trip there again soon too. I could have walked around Brora and Golspie for days!
How did you find good coeliac friendly food and dining, do you have information related to where I can find info